[2025] Sunrise Seto: Japan’s last sleeper train

It has been ages since I last blogged—2025 has kept me busier than I expected. Finally, I found some downtime to write about one of the highlights of my year so far: riding Japan’s iconic sleeper train, the Sunrise Express.

I’ve wanted to ride it ever since I first saw it pop up on my YouTube feed, and by luck, it fit perfectly into my Japan itinerary. Since we hadn’t yet visited Shikoku, the Sunrise Express offered the ideal excuse to ride in style while exploring Japan’s smallest island. But, as countless Redditors and bloggers have warned, booking the Sunrise Express can be a stressful ordeal—especially for non-Japanese speakers like me.

For someone who has not done an overnight train before (like yours truly), the Sunrise Seto journey was a novel experience. The trip begins at the heart of Tokyo city, at Tokyo Station which serves as a major transportation hub for locals and tourists alike. Thousands of commuters pass by the station daily even at night as the city falls to a dark. Tokyo is truly a city that does not sleep.

It was 8pm and I have deposited my heavy luggages at Japan’s Yamato transport where it will make its way to Osaka, where my two-weeks Japan trip would conclude. While night has fallen, the train station barely showed signs of an ending day. I saw tourists struggling with their colourful suitcases and oversized bags, their faces weary—likely from the sub-10-degree weather and long hours of travel. Yet, a pair of excited eyes brightened as they passed the stores selling ekiben (Japanese railway bento boxes). Truly, nothing wakes a tourist up quite like food – I was guilty of that too.

Yet before the train arrives, enthusiastic crowds comprising of local Japanese and foreigners formed at the platform at car 4 which leads to the two only cars onboard that offer shower cards. Others could be seen sitting on the platform chairs, waiting patiently for the train to bring them somewhere new or home.

The double-decker gold-and-red sleeper train comes crawling into Tokyo Station platform X at 9.50 pm sharp, fetching yet another batch of commuters onboard to their destinations: Takamatsu or Okayama (formally known as the Sunrise Izumi route).

The 9.5-hr-long train journey departs from Tokyo Station daily and stops at Okayama where the 14-car train decouples; the Sunrise Izumi would head north and travel 200km more to the city of Izumo at Shimane Prefecture while the other half would cross the Seto Inland Sea to Shikoku islands, the smallest of the four main islands in Japan archipelago. I have explored Hokkaido, Honshu and I wanted to explore somewhere new so Takamatsu is the way to go.

Words simply cannot explain why I was so excited for this ride. Maybe it is because of the scenic view that surrounds the trip although I soon realised that it being an overnight train meant everything will be pretty much in dark. Or maybe it was just the novelty of sleeping on a train. Still, it was not something I could experience in Singapore — what a city folk, right.

I quickly boarded the train, eager to drop off my baggage before exploring the rest of the cabins. I had booked a single room (S$205 per person), and the space was comfortably sized for my duffel bag, the classic Japanese transparent umbrella, and my other carry-ons. In true Japanese fashion, the cabin was spotless, free of cigarette smells, and stocked with cosy blankets and pillows for the night. I travelled during mid-March, when Tokyo’s temperature dipped below 10°C, and the room stayed perfectly warm throughout my journey.

Unlike the shinkansen, there is no seating cabins on the Sunrise Seto. There were a couple of sleeping options onboard the train. The most budget-friendly is the traditional nobinobi open-area bed—a shared space where curtains offer just enough privacy to feel tucked away from curious eyes. For those craving a proper bed, like me, options are scarce but worth it. Couples can share a compartment in the Sunrise Twin, which has two beds side by side, or the Single Twin, a cozy double-decker setup. I had initially considered one of these, but as the night unfolded, I found myself liking my cabin more and more. It is a cozy and comfortable size for me. Those sleeping alone could also opt for the Solo and the Single Deluxe which differ only in size.

As I settled my belongings, I was surprised to see Car 3 already filled with young Japanese teenagers and a foreigner couple munching their supper away. Cars 3 and 10 were the only berth where passengers could chill as they watch the city sleeps (and wakes). Though reservations are not required, I was fortunate that the travellers were courteous enough to make room for me and my ekiben.

As midnight approaches, the chattering in Car 3 slowly died down and friends bid goodnight to each other and made their way back to their cabins. The train was quiet, almost too quiet. There was no staff onboard the train, only the passengers and the train conductor. Almost too reminiscent of Agatha Christie’s “Murder on the Orient Express”. I took the silent halls as my cue too to retreat back to my room.

I woke up multiple times throughout the night. First around 1AM where I thought the train has arrived. Nope, the sky was pitch dark. Then another time at around 3AM. I opened Google Maps and the train was either at Nagoya or Osaka. Still a bit far from my destination. I tried my luck again and for the last time, I woke up. No, no one screamed and there was no thumping noises. The bed was comfortable and thankfully my head did not bumped into the wooden bed frame but I simply was not used to the slightly bumpy ride as the train went over 100 km/hour. At about 5AM, I eventually gave up sleeping and resigned to doomscrolling as I waited for the sun to rise.

What surprised me was not how spacious and clean the toilet was, but how there was also an older lady waiting outside the toilet with a cup and toothbrush on her hand. Seems like I am not the only one who woke up before the alarm rang.

As the sun rose, I began my day with snacks I had picked up in Tokyo the night before. While the train’s romantic charm was undeniable, I couldn’t help but wish for a bit more convenience—like a snacks vending machine onboard. There was only a single machine selling beverages, and for a trip as long as the Sunrise Seto, a few more snack options would have made the journey even sweeter.

The train grew even quieter and emptier after the de-coupling at Okayama Station. Half of the passengers headed north to Izumi, while I continued south toward Takamatsu. A strange thought lingered—there was a 50-50 chance I would never see the people I met in Car 3 yesterday, or the elderly lady earlier.

We passed the Seto Inland Sea and after nearly ten hours onboard, the train arrived safely and right on time in Takamatsu, the capital of Kagawa Prefecture and home to the Sanuki udon. For most, it was just another Monday morning rush—students and office workers hurrying to their destinations. But for the 200-odd passengers carefully packing their belongings and snapping photos against the train, this moment felt more like the first page of an exciting new adventure.

It was an amazing journey, one that I have craved for long since I set my eyes on it. Perfect weather, perfect company and perfect trip.

I would love to hop on this ride again in the near future. Till then, janae.

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For specific enquiries about booking Sunrise Seto, which cabins to book, the size of baggages allowed etc, please drop me a message or email films.colours@gmail.com. I will be happy to share more.